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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. But, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary achievement.